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Gary recounts his trek through the forests of Volcanoes National Park,
Rwanda, and his encounter with the massive Mountain Gorillas.
These magnificent animals somehow survive in Congo
(Democratic Republic of Congo) avoiding the insurgents,
poachers and the local armed forces.They sometimes prefer
to drift across the border to Uganda and Rwanda. Uganda
has a healthy population some of whom, led by curiosity,
try out the lodges and venture into them – an experience
as surprising for them as for the residents of these lodges!
Rwanda – Volcanoes – the National Park nestling in the
forests surrounding the extinct volcanoes Karisimbi,
Mekeno, Bisoke, Sabyinyo, Gahinga, and Mahabura. This
park adjoins the Gahinga National Park in Uganda and the
Virunga National Park in DRC - both home to these
magnificent creatures.
Visits are well organised, though extremely well charged!
A 7 am collection at the park headquarters in the Musanze
district, an allocation of guides, and groups of no more than
ten people. A drive over moon surface like non-existent
roads to the take-off point and the journey begins.
As usual, the ladies are the most enthusiastic and start up
the hill at a pace of the inexperienced, to the amusement
of the experienced guides, After half a kilometre, they are
clutching their sides and insisting on a rest.
Up, up and up a sheer 70% gradient, on non-existent paths
with the guide and the porters helping the stumbling visitors
up. Ants up our pants, thorns on our clothes but onward
marches the troupe. Steep and slippery, over logs and bracken,
tread the visitors. Nettle plants are used by the ignorant as
hand holds, much to their discomfort and the guide’s delight.
The slowest member sets the pace, assisted by porters hired
for the job, or the guide if he takes a fancy to the poor soul,
especially if it is a nice looking lady!
Like rackety old steam engines, huffing and puffing, climbing
over boulders and fallen tree trunks, slipping and sliding in the
slush with numerous stops and starts, the weary tread on.The
stops are times for stories and recounting events by the guides.
A lesson on the flora and fauna in the forest too is welcome as
one gets time to rest.The bottle of water which felt very heavy
en route is a welcome relief when tired and thirsty. One hardly
gets one’s breath back when the climb starts once again.
The gorillas are only 10 minutes away, we are reassured. We
move on again only to be reminded after 10 minutes that they
have moved another 10 minutes farther up.
The spotter is already near the group so a regular update on
their vicinity is given to the weary tourists.
A grunt, and we are there, seeing one larger than life silverback
walking down with his girlfriend pushing all away from the
path, an experience terrifying for some and giving an adrenal
kick to most. In the hurry of getting out of his way most
forget their cameras. We are there and the rest of the family
are in the vicinity.
The tracker meets the guide and points everybody to the main
gorilla group. The family head looks at the visitors
unconcerned and carries on with what he is doing – eating,
picking lice, resting... Not to be fooled he has his eyes on the
family whom he will protect with all his might.
It is the juveniles and the babies who have to be kept away
from the visitors as they are curious and inquisitive. At times
they put up a show for the rest by tumbling down thin
branches not able to hold their weight, always discouraged to
come near the tourists who actually sit about 10 feet away
observing them.
Shutterbugs click hundreds of photographs, get tired and then
watch the group patiently.Time flies and an hour later it is time
to leave. To move out is depressing, nonetheless. Many a time
one could find a few gorillas sitting on the path, who are not
disturbed and everybody skirts them passing very close.
Tales of the magnificent beasts:
One group of tourists was accosted on their way up and had to walk
intermingled with the group up the path herded by the silverback.
Another time a silverback moved the group away from an area and
also insisted with signs that the visiting tourists move away with
the group. It was later discovered that he had seen an old rusted
trap and was shepherding everyone away.
The descent is worse for the fainthearted, slipping and sliding
away; what was an effort climbing up is now a nightmare for
the unfit. Knees hurting and thighs burdened, helped along by
the guides and guards, the group finally makes it down to the
starting point.
Tired and exhilarated, one departs happy and wanting to be
back another day, a wildlife experience like no other, sitting in
front of wild gorillas over a long period and seeing these
magnificent creatures in their natural environment.
It is the fortunate who have the experience.
– H. S. Grewal
Gisovu, Rwanda
Gorillas in the mist.
Rwanda, the land of a thousand hills, and mountain gorillas too.
The Beginning...
July 2014 61
60 July 2014
AWalk in the Wild
Enthusiastic Girls!
Guardian of the Family
A Welcome Rest